Projection Systems for the Do-It-Yourself Home Theater Enthusiasts
CRTCinema.com was the website for Projection Systems. The content below is from the site's 2004 archived pages.
At Projection Systems our mission is to help do-it-yourself home theater enthusiasts create rooms that rival the experience of a commercial cinemas at home. By using the very highest quality CRT projection units and the latest screens, cables and video processing equipment you'll see images that simply can't be matched by any other technology today. You may not believe the prices and we guarantee you won't believe the image you'll experience!
Welcome to our world of home theater where we measure screen size in feet...not inches. You can have real cinema quality and size at home? Now every seat in the house can be the best!
PSI is here to help you harness the thrill of the latest blockbuster films by recreating the cinema experience in the security and privacy of your own home. PSI will continue to support CRT projectors until a new technology can rival the image quality they produce and it becomes well established....not to mention affordable.
Projection Systems Staff have helped 1000's of home theater enthusiasts in over 50 countries to design and install beautiful theaters featuring CRT projection technology. Capable of even rivaling film itself, CRT's still remain the gold standard of excellence for home theater. Our ISF trained technical staff not only service and rebuild CRT projectors, but are available for phone and email support.
IMAGES: room1.jpg | room2.jpg
Our web site provides a wealth of information on most of the CRT projectors ever made. We have attempted to answer many of the questions that come up when doing your own installation on the technical FAQ's page. Each product category on the site features specs, instructions and tips for getting the most out of your installation.
In an effort to provide the very best equipment at affordable prices, PSI has over the years, engineered a variety of solutions specifically for the do-it-yourself home theater builder.
Precision Digital Video Cables
-PSI's Precision Digital Video Cables are designed to provide the very best transfer of signals from source components to the display device. Using only professional based products and top quality materials, our cables rival products from competitors at 5 times the price. Buying from the manufacturer, you as the consumer save retail, distribution and packaging mark-ups, while enjoying a no compromise product at an affordable price.
Visual Dynamics Reference Cinema Processors - Coming Soon!
-We've seen a dramatic increase in HD capable TV's, yet many consumers are only given the ability to use a progressive scan DVD player running at 480p. We are excited to offer advanced video scalers capable of upscaling standard 480i video, in one line increments, from 480p to 1080p. Our scalers feature state-of-the-art scaling and deinterlacing engines as well as low noise circuitry for the best possible images for your video projector.
As we enter the 21st Century, motion pictures have taken on a new and amazing life thanks to new technology. PSI is here to help you enjoy the thrill and entertain family and friends with the very best images possible for each unique installation. Thanks for being part of the excitement with us.
The PSI team.
Our first huge SALE of the year starts May 26th. We've just received many super clean, corporate board room projectors in excellent condition. We've put together some amazingly affordable packages that are sure to fit your needs and EXCEED your expectations for HD quality home theater. Why wait? You deserve the home theater of your dreams today.....
Introducing our first big package sale of the year!
Each package includes everything you need to start enjoying a large screen, front projection theater experience in your own home. Just hook it up to your existing audio system and DVD player, HDTV receiver, cable or satellite system.
"A far better value than any consumer "Big Screen TV under $5000"
Features a compact, HDTV ready, Sony CRT projector, mount kit, video line doubler, precision video cables and a 100" screen - Was $1799 - Now Only $1499 Complete
The "Movie Buff" home theater package contains an easy to use and setup Sony VPH-1031Q HD ready, CRT, video projector. The 1031Q is capable of very bright and richly saturated colors, while at the same time uses analog controls for easy setup and picture adjustments. The included video processor is capable of accepting inputs from 3 different sources and will progressively scan them all to IDTV 480 progressive resolution. Hook up your VCR, DVD player, cable, satellite or even your video games and get ready to have a blast on the supplied 100" diagonal screen!
SONY VPH-1031Q (HDTV)
VIDEO PROCESSOR SPECIFICATIONS
- PureProgressive Motion Adaptive Processing
DVDO Iscan PRO
PRECISION VIDEO CABLE SPECIFICATIONS
- Ultra clean, 800 Mhz+ bandwidth transmission
Precision High Bandwidth Video Cables
PROJECTION SCREEN SPECIFICATIONS
- 100" Diagonal (60"h x 80"w) 4:3 format
Da-Lite Model B 60" x 80" Screen
|The "Movie Buff" package also includes the following:
- "Free" projector mounting kit and instructions - a $175 Value!
Now Only $1375.00
(you save $899 off our regular prices)
Optional upgrades available
- Increased cable length - add $20 per 5 feet
Very high quality in a sleek design. Package includes Sony's latest CRT projector model, a mount kit, a state-of-the-art video processor / scaler, precision video cables and a 100" Screen -$3799 Complete LEARN MORE
The Connoisseur package includes an upper level CRT projector featuring advanced focusing, high output 8" CRT's and is capable of rivaling commercial cinema quality images. It also includes a state-for-the-art video processor / scaler, mounting kit, precision video cables and a 100" screen - $4950 Complete
The ultimate system for the discerning viewer. Starting with a top quality 9" CRT projector, we modify the video circuitry, fans and outer case to create one of the best looking machine on the planet....both on screen and off. All of the included cables, video processing and accessories are top quality and feature the most advanced features found today - $14,595 Complete.
Below are some of the commonly asked questions you may encounter when building your home theater. Click on any heading to go directly to that subject.
- What is the difference between a pull down and a fixed wall screen?
- What is screen gain?
- Can I watch TV and other 4:3 video sources on a 16:9 widescreen?
- Does it need to be dark to watch a front projection system?
RT PROJECTOR MOUNTS
- How can I safely mount a larger CRT projector?
- How critical is it that my projector is installed exactly where the manufacturer specifies?
- What cables will I need in my home theater?
- What is a line doubler and do I need one?
- Why not just use a progressive scan DVD player?
- Will a scaler give me an even better image?
- How do I connect a line doubler, or video processor to my projector?
- How do I know what projector will do HDTV and line doubling?
- How can a projector made before HDTV was around, be HDTV capable?
- Are CRT projectors hard to set up?
- What can I clean the lenses with?
- What if my lenses are scratched?
- How do I know how much time is on my VPH-10xx projector?
- How can I check the CRT timers on my VPH-12xx series projector?
- Can I check the CRT timers on a G or D Series projector?
- How do I flip the image on my Sony VPH-1030 / 1031Q?
- How do I flip the image on my Sony VPH-104x series projector?
- How do I flip the image on my Sony VPH-12xx series projector?
- How do I flip the image on my Sony VPH-D or G series projector?
- I can't get enough adjustment from the red and blue centering controls, now what?
- What are the lens ring spacers and CRT shims (spacers) for?
- Why can't I get the blue CRT to focus as good as the red and green?
- How can I input component video with a VPH-12xx series projector?
- How can I control and store aspect ratios on a Sony VPH-12xx, D or G series projector?
- Can I turn my VPH-1252 into a VPH-1272 with 21 point convergence?
- Can I remove the keypad and use it closer to the screen?
- Why won't my remote operate my VPH-G70Q?
- Why does my image jitter sometimes?
- Why doesn't my remote work?
- I can't get an image to show up, what's wrong?
- Why won't my projector sync onto other resolutions?
- How do I check the CRT timer?
Q. What is the difference between a pull down and a fixed wall screen?
A. Both offer a better viewing surface than a typical painted wall since manufactured screens use special surface materials designed to control the light reflectivity and keep the image uniform. Apull down screen is easy to use, affordable and has the ability to be rolled up and hidden when not in use. Da-Lite screens can be simply hung from the ceiling or mounted to a wall with the supplied hardware. Permanent wall screens offer a wider choice of surface materials and have a very smooth and uniform surface due to their being stretched onto a frame. The most common is the hPerm-Wall style where the screen material is integrated with a black border. Within the border are snaps which secure the material to the screen frame. The Cinema Contour screen features a wider 4" frame that is painted black. The screen material snaps behind the frame giving the image a framed look and feel. The Cinema Contour frame can also be finished in a velvet material for a small up-charge. This increases the perceived contrast ratio and absorbs any unwanted light spill on the borders. Assembly is usually less than 15 minutes and you can simply hang either of these screens just as you would a picture. They can also be framed into an opening for a custom installation.
Q. What is screen gain?
A. Gain is generally the measurement of light reflected from the screen surface divided by the light coming from the projector. So the higher the gain the brighter the image. But along with a brighter image you suffer loss of viewing angle. A higher gain, typically 1.5 or more, will be more apt to show "hot-spotting" or have abnormal color intensity in areas where the image may be brighter. Since most home theater applications have controllable light, generally gains from 1.0-1.3 are used. Da-Lite's Matte-White (1.0), Da-Mat (1.1) or Cinema Vision (1.3) materials make excellent choices. The Cinema Vision is a newer material with a slight increase in gain while maintaining a very uniform viewing surface. This material has received the ISF certification for superior image reproduction. Due to its softer nature it is available only in a framed or tensioned screen style.
Q. Can I watch TV and other 4:3 video sources on a 16:9 widescreen?
A. This can be confusing, but remember that the width of a 4:3 and 16:9 image are always the same. A 16:9 screen looks great but is simply not high enough to accommodate 4:3 images which in film based material are actually a cropped and zoomed area of the original 16:9 frame. You can resize the image to fit inside the 16:9 area by doing a vertical and horizontal squeeze with the projector. This causes some loss of light and resolution and may drive the CRT's harder to maintain the light output you want. Another option is simply to use a 4:3 screen. During standard 4:3 viewing you simply fill the screen. Any 16:9 or widescreen material will fill the screen horizontally and you will have an unused area on the top and bottom of the screen. This is far less apparent when viewing front projection than when For other formats the pull-down styles will retract and stop at various points. Then you just set up memories in your projector to remember these positions and formats. The easiest option is to simply turn off the lights and watch the movie on a 4:3 screen. With front projection you do not have the light spill associated with a tube TV set and thus will not really see the "black bars" as you normally would (this in not the case with LCD or DLP technology as light spill is an issue). And of course there is always the motorized masking system the automatically masks the screen to fit whatever format you are watching. It is the most expensive option, but by far one of the coolest additions to a home theater!
Q. Does it need to be dark to watch a front projection system?
A. Yes and no. Think about this. To produce blacks on screen, the white screen must be black. Since black can not be projected, but is simply the absence of light, it is somewhat important to have the room darkened. This does not mean that the room must be black. Dimmed down-lights or task lighting may be ok as long as they are not shining on the screen surface washing out the blacks. It doesn't matter how bright your projector is if your room isn't somewhat dark, you won't have good contrast.|
CRT PROJECTOR MOUNTS
Q. How can I safely mount a larger CRT projector?
A. Projection Systems sells only the strongest mounts in the industry. They are rated for many times the weight you will be putting on them. The weakest link will be the fasteners holding the ceiling plate to the ceiling. In cases where you have drywall and wooden ceiling trusses or floor joists, 4 lag type screws will be sufficient. Remember that even a 150lb projector will only put 37.5Lbs on each screw. A 200lb man should be able to hang on a one screw all day if its properly screwed in at least a couple of inches. In concrete ceilings, expandable concrete anchors hold even the heaviest of loads. Using 4 properly selected anchors for the job will work well. High ceilings may require a "drop-kit". The kit simply goes between the ceiling and the mount to effectively lower the ceiling mounting position. Again, secure the drop kits ceiling plate and securely bolt the mount to the lower plate. In all cases a little common sense goes a long way.
Q. How critical is it that my projector is installed exactly where the manufacturer specifies?
A. If your concerned about having the right projection distance, simply set it up on the floor, be sure the image is properly filling the CRT's and the screen and measure from the screen to the mounting holes on the projector.. Transfer the numbers to the ceiling. We actually like to push the projectors a little closer to the screen as we can use more of the CRT's and get a little more brightness and resolution capability. This is usually not more than 6" in most home theater applications.
Q. What cables will I need in my home theater?
A. While you will be using a variety of cables to connect all of your source equipment, the projector may have only one. Today's sources such as Hi-definition television and line doubled or scaled DVD, cable and satellite all will use RGB or component video. We prefer to use RGB (5 wire RGBHV or a 15 pin VGA connector) if at all possible. Its is pure uncompressed color and sync information and allows for the highest quality connections. Try to use a HDTV decoder and video processor that outputs RGB. If your processor features HDTV pass-through, your HDTV decoder can feed right into it as well as all of your other video sources for processing. Then one hi-quality cable can be run to the projector.
Q. What is a line doubler and do I need one?
A. The video signal from a DVD player, VCR, cable, satellite or video games is made up of scan lines. In the US, we use the standard video signal referred to as NTSC. This signal consists of 240 lines displayed every 60th of a second. To complete the image with its full 480 lines, during the next 60th of a second, the other 240 lines are drawn to fill in the spaces left by the first field. This is interlaced video or 480i. This was acceptable since the 1940's but with the larger images in home theaters today, its simply much too revealing to watch 480i. A line doubler does not really double these lines, but stores them for a fraction of a second, puts them back in order outputting them progressively. This 480p signal allows you to see twice as much picture information in the same time you would normally see only half the image. Its also eliminates many of the artifacts or things that interlacing introduces to the image is its For a fraction of the cost of your projector you can make it literally look twice as good. Isn't it great to be alive in the 21st century!
Q. Why not just use a progressive scan DVD player?
A. While many of the latest progressive scan DVD players have some great features, many use a processing chipset that is inferior to those found in outboard processors. Also all PS DVD players output compressed and encoded component video which is not the best signal format, especially if your projector features RGB inputs. On the other hand, an outboard line doubler or video processor allows you to input your standard DVD player, VCR, cable, satellite, and video games so now all of your sources are up-converted to a higher quality RGB signal and a progressive format, not just the DVD player.
Q. Will a scaler give me an even better image?
A. By taking advantage of the latest in video processing technology, a scaler uses sophisticated processing algorithms to "scale" the image into something more useable. For example you may have a multi-scan projector capable of higher resolutions, lets say like 1024 x 768p or 768 progressive lines. While a line doubler will provide 480p, a scaler can provide a variety of other resolutions to better reveal your projectors full potential. Many also control aspect ratios and picture sizing for complete image control. Most can change refresh rates to better match a projector or display for a flicker free image. Many scalers offer in addition to 480p, resolutions like 800 x 600p, 1024 x 768p, 1280 x 960p, as well as 1080i and 720p rate formats for consumer HDTV's. Using a scaler will often yield a more film-like image. You will find that manyscalers will output resolutions that may be even higher than your projector is comfortable producing. This may result in a softer image. But with a little comparison, you'll have fun determining just what is the best for your theater.
Q. How do I connect a line doubler, or video processor to my projector?
A. Almost all scalers accept standard RCA or BNC type composite video, S-video and component video. These are used for connecting your source equipment to the processor. Some have HD pass-though, which allows you to input your HD Receiver and pass the signal along the same cable as your normal processed video to your projector. Video processors generally output RGB in the form of a VGA (db15HD plug) or RGBHV (5 BNC connectors). When you have the more common VGA output you will need a VGA breakout cable. These break out the signal into its 3 color signals and 2 sync signals to connect to your projector. Silicon Images DVDO iscan products are capable of outputting both RGB and component video for today's consumer HDTV's.
CRT VIDEO PROJECTORS (GENERAL)
Q. How do I know what projector will do HDTV and line doubling?
A. Find your projector in our specs pages. Go to the scan rates chart and compare the projectors horizontal scan rate. If its capable of scanning high enough, it will display the resolution you need. In many cases, you'll find that professional video products will exceed the rates required by HDTV and line doubling by a good amount.
Q. How can a projector made before HDTV was around, be HDTV capable?
A. Its really quite simple. Many multi-scan projectors were designed to scan progressive computer resolutions, some as high as 2500 x 2000p at over 100Khz horizontal rates. Then HDTV came along, the highest format is only 720p or more common 1080i (540p). This requires only a moderate horizontal scanning capability of 33.72Khz-44.95Khz.
Q. Are CRT projectors hard to set up?
A. Hard? No. Plug them in and watch a movie? No. A CRT projector consists of 3 smaller tubes (CRT's), each projecting an image in its respective color. Any time a CRT projector is moved or installed at a new location, each lens must be focused and the 3 images must be converged or over-laid. Many of the CRT projectors built in the last 10 years feature digital convergence. This allows you to project a grid pattern on the screen, one in each color if out of convergence. You then use controls such as shift, size, bow, etc to move the red and blue grids over the green grid, usually the center colored CRT. The point convergence feature allows even further accuracy as you move around smaller areas of the screen to fine tune the process. The resulting white grid shows perfect alignment or convergence and now you can watch a movie with the satisfaction of having successfully learned the art of convergence. Any tunes ups down the road can be easily done without having to call in the specialist. In addition to our free tech support line, Projection Systems supplies a complete >installers manual with every CRT projector we sell. They are also available for download here.
Q. What can I clean the lenses with?
A. Treat the projector lenses' just as you would a camera lens. Camera wipes or a clean cotton cloth will work well without scratching. Isopropyl alcohol cleans without leaving a residue or a mild window cleaner will also work fine. Many lenses are coated, so be careful not to rub or scratch the coating.
Q. What if my lenses are scratched?
A. A scratch on the outside of the lens is not really as bad as it seems. You will never be able to see it on screen unless its a severe gouge and then it still may not be noticeable. A scratch on the back side of the lenses is worse as it will be magnified as it travels through the lens assembly. This doe's not necessarily mean that it will show up on the screen, but it can slightly distort the image in that area.
SONY CRT PROJECTORS
Q. How do I know how much time is on my VPH-10xx projector?
A. These models did not have built in timers. A simple inspection with a flashlight shining directly into the lenses with the projector turned off will reveal the most. Look closely at the tube (CRT) faces. Blue will be the first to show signs of wear. If they are all clean and uniform you can safely estimate from 1-1500 hours of use in general. A slight square shading is likely 1000-5000 depending on how hard the unit was run. Darker shading on the green or even more rare, on the red will indicate heavier use and will affect image quality. Don't let a little shading scare you off from getting into home theater. Wear is common on all CRT based devices. The monitor your looking at right now may have even heavy wear, but you just can't see it unless you could see what is behind the plastic case on the sides to make a comparison. As long as you can stay inside the worn area you won't see it on screen. The slight shading of the phosphor layer can also be compensated with the color controls and even proper grey-scale can in most cases still be achieved. For more info on CRT wear and burn, view our CRT <>wear chart.
Q. How can I check the CRT timers on my VPH-12xx series projector?
A. Locate the "test" key under the top grille cover in the lower left corner. With the projector powered first press the "page" key once. Then press and hold the "test" key. You should see the message, "not applicable!". Keep holding the key down. (If you don't see this message, press the "status on" key.) After about 10 seconds you will be asked if you want to enter the "serviceman control mode". Press the ^ cursor key for yes. Now press the "page" key 5 times to go to...you guessed it, page 5. Press the > cursor key to view the CRT timers. To exit the service control mode simply hold the test key again or power the unit off.
Q. Can I check the CRT timers on a G or D Series projector?
A. Yes, its just a bit different than the 1200 series. With the projector powered first press the "menu" key once. Then press the following keys in this order, enter - enter - up key - down key - enter. You will be asked if you want to enter the "serviceman control mode". Select yes or "^". Press "menu" again and you should see a small "s" when you see the menu. Press the "down arrow" key 6 times to reach the Serial #, ROM version and timer page. Scroll over with the cursor and highlight the timer button. Press "enter" to view to total operation timer and the individual CRT timers. Hit exit or power off to return to normal mode.
Q. How do I flip the image on my Sony VPH-1030/1031Q?
A. Remove the top cover assembly. There are 2 screws under the rear control panel cover and 3 screws under the rear logo plate. Be sure the unit is powered off before going any further. You will need to locate 9 DB jumpers on the DB circuit board, each will have 2 input jacks. . Move all 9 jumpers to its corresponding alternate location. Locate the ceiling/ floor switch on the same DB board and move it to the appropriate position. Now locate the DA board under the DB board by removing the retaining screw and lifting it up. On the DA board pull off connectors Da-14,15 and 16 and rotate each one 180 degrees and plug then back into the same jacks. Reassemble the unit.
Q. How do I flip the image on my Sony VPH-104x series projector?
A. Remove the top cover assembly. There are 2 screws under the rear control panel cover and 3 screws under the rear logo plate. Be sure the unit is powered off before going any further. On the "E" board (top left) locate the E-1, 2, 3 jumpers. Lift each one off, rotate 180 degrees and reinstall. Moving right to the "D" board move the 3 CN jumpers to their corresponding alternate location. Moving right and toward the lenses, locate the 5 switches HDC, H1, VDC, V1, and V2. Flip each switch into the opposite position. All switches should be either on or off, not mixed. Reassemble the unit.
Q. How do I flip the image on my Sony VPH-12xx series projector? (excluding 1292 - see below)
A. Remove the top cover assembly. There are 2 screws under the top control panel door. Be sure the unit is powered off before going any further. Locate the 3 large jumper connections on the "E" board just behind the fan. Remove each connector, rotate it 180 degrees and reinsert it into the corresponding connector. Move left to the "DC" board and locate the 3 small connectors usually colored red, white and orange. Move each one into its corresponding alternate jack. Reassemble the unit.
Q. How do I flip the image on my Sony VPH-D50, G70, G90, or 1292 projector?
A. Remove the top cover or access door. Be sure the unit is powered off before going any further. Looking at the top of the projector just behind the lenses, locate a connector bay with 3 large black connectors. Remove each connector, rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it in the corresponding socket. Locate the polarity switch in the same area and move it in the opposite direction. (On the 1292 its to the left on the "L" board). Reinstall the covers.
Q. I can't get enough adjustment from the red and blue centering controls, now what?
A. First check the shims and spacers for correct size (see below). Next use the "zone" key. It will give you a lot more movement than the centering function does.
Q. What are the lens ring spacers and CRT shims (spacers) for?
A. Sony designed the 10xx and 12xx projectors to adjust lens throw angles for different size screens. To change the screen size drastically may mean you will need to change theshims and spacers to achieve proper focus and convergence. They supplied 9 lens spacers. One for each lens and 3 for each type of projection. The 2 darker gray sets are for rear projections. If your going to be doing front projections you will need the black set installed. Each ring can be set for a specific screen size, either small (70"-85"), medium (86"-139") or large (140"-300") screen sizes. Rotate the rings until the corresponding "s", "m" or "l" is aligned with the mounting stud. The CRT shims move the entire CRT assembly in or out to provide a greater throw area. These aluminum shims are fitted along the side of the lens/CRT assembly just behind the cast lens mount. Again 3 sizes are provided, "s", "m" and "l" for the corresponding screen sizes. Although Sony supplied both inner and outer shims, you only need to replace the outer set as the inner sets are all common. This also allows the installation without removing the lenses. Simply loosen the outer 2 nuts holding the lens mounting frame and lift up and out on the shims. Carefully replace them with the proper size. If you can't tell which ones are installed, here is a tip. Looking at the thickness of the shim from the top, the large are approx 1/4" thick, the medium are approx. 1/2" thick and the small shims are approx. 3/4" thick. Projection Systems has all sizes available in our on-line store.
Q. Why can't I get the blue CRT to focus as good as the red and green?
A. Sony detunes the blue CRT at the factory. While the red and green are primarily responsible for sharpness the blue helps to produce the white levels. By detuning the blue, the scan lines are less evident and picture takes on a more film-like imaging. Also blue is just harder to perceive with the eyes for sharp focus. For higher resolutions you may want to have better focus on the blue. This may require adjusting the astigmatism magnets on the CRT yolk. (see the service manual).
Q. How can I input component video in a VPH-12xx series projector?
A. Component video came out after Sony designed the 12xx series units. The IFB-1200, 1300 and 1400 boards all support component video, but the IFB-1400 and 1301 are designed for progressive component video such as the output from a progressive scan DVD player or HDTV receiver. The component cards do not work as well as the RGB card. Since one is usually installed, you may be better off looking into an outboard ine doubler since they already output RGB and you can progressively scan all of your components.
Q. How can I control and store aspect ratios on a Sony VPH-12xx, D or G series projector?
A. Although these projectors were not specifically designed to save aspect ratio information, you still can. Here are the steps for the 12xx series projectors. Slide out the "video" board on the back panel. This requires removing the projector hood. Next remove the 3 screws holding the upper plastic trim just over the input cards on the rear of the projector. Its about 24" long and 1/2" wide. Now loosen the 2 screw holding the "video" card. Slide it out and put SW1 (sometimes SW101) into the 5BNC mode. Reassemble in reverse order. With an input in the slot A, select any of the switcher/index numbers on the remote. Converge and set your screen size and picture preferences for that index number. PRESS the MEMORY key. All settings will be stored for that index number. Continue with other inputs and aspect ratios. You get up to 8 settings with the "A" slot. The "B" slot will only have one memory. Any other inputs using higher or lower scan frequencies will also have additional automatic memory positions that the projector will lock onto when detected.
Q. Can I turn my VPH-1252 into a VPH-1272 with 21 point convergence?
A. Depending the the ROM version of the software in your machine, you will either need to replace the "Y" board or the "Y" and the "?" boards with boards from a VPH-1272Q. These boards are located between the CRT's in card slots. You will need to remove the upper cover assembly, and the 12 screws holding the "DC" and "E" board mounting tray. This tray hinges up to reveal the CRT's and the control boards. We do not have any specific serial numbers as to which units require just the "Y" boards, but it may be a good idea to order both just in case and have the option of returning the "?" if its not needed.
Q. Can I remove the keypad and use it closer to the screen?
A. We'll its designed to be removed, but you can take it out and extend it. When you pop it out you'll find that there is a 4" jumper attached. You can simply cut the 3 wires and extend them for a wired keypad. We also sell a simple plug-in extension cable so you don't have to cut any wires.
Q. Why won't my remote operate my VPH-G70Q?
A. The VPH-G70Q has a menu option on page which can disable the remote sensors. Hit "menu" and scroll down to page 2. Moe the cursor over to "SIRCS Receiver" and select the sensors you want to enable. Sometimes due to fluorescent lighting or other IR sources you may want to keep a sensor disabled.
Q. Why does my image jitter sometimes?
A. Image jitter can be cause by poor AC power, an arcing circuit or failing components. The first thing to check is the large white Molex plug coming from the power supply. After removing the projector cover on a 12xx series unit, you will find the plugs on the left side toward the front of the machine, if facing it from the back. With the power off, separate the plugs and blow them out or use a good dielectric cleaner to remove any accumulated dust or debris. This often stabilizes the power into the machine. Also try to keep the projector on the same AC circuit as any equipment that's attached to it to prevent and ground loop feedback from being forced to travel over the signal cables.
ARCO CRT PROJECTORS
Q. Why doesn't my remote work?
A. Check the projector address. Press the "address" key on the remote with a pen or sharp object. It will display on screen for a moment. Enter that number into the remote keypad to sync them. Ex. for 1 press "01".
Q. I can't get an image to show up, what's wrong?
A. Do you have an input feeding the projector. Barco's like to "see" a signal they can lock onto. Some won't even like to display the menu without a signal.
Q. Why won't my projector sync onto other resolutions?
A. Are you running a different resolution into the 5 BNC RGB input (input 5)? This input only accepts signals with both horizontal and vertical sync signals being negative. Refer to the scan rate chart. If you want to use that resolution you may have to run into the DB9 input. You will need the a VGA to Barco DB9 cable.
Q. How do I check the CRT timer?
A. Press the "adjust" key. Scroll down to the "service" menu. Hit "enter". Scroll down to "run time" and "enter".
CTROHOME CRT PROJECTORS
Q. I can't get my 8xxx / 9xxx to fit an anamorphic image onto a 16:9 screen...why?
A. These projectors do not quite have enough adjustment to fit a 16:9 screen properly. There is a $150 mod that is required to allow for enough adjustment to get the proper screen size.
More topic that are coming soon....
How can I get better focus?
I'm using my component video output into a projector and the image is green - Why?
How do I shut off the white warm up screen (sony)?
Who can I call to calibrate my projector?